I don’t know why i get these perverse urges to do a full-on eye makeup – waterline in dark liner and the whole works – when i’m in the grip of a nasty bug and my eyes are watering almost constantly, but there you have it.  I figure, i have to get up to go to work anyway, so what the Hell. Right?  Plus, it will put my new eyeliner to the test. Of course, nowhere does it say that aforementioned eyeliner is waterproof. So of course, i’m kinda screwed from the get-go. But, luckily for me, it performs surprisingly well for several hours; and by the time things start to fall apart, it’s quittin’ time anyway.

Today, i wanted to do a modern, fresh take on the Edie Sedgwick eye. She really had the strong eyeliner look down, and she always balanced it out with a nice, pale-nude lip.


Gorgeous Edie

Granted, it’s not 1966 anymore, and if you’re ultra-pale like me, ringing one’s eyes entirely in jet black (especially the waterline) can be a little…shocking? Especially for daytime. And frankly, unless you have massive eyes – which Edie certainly did – it can actually make them look smaller, which is kind of counter-productive, and not a look most people are going for. And in the case of those of us who do have large eyes, the look can be a bit overwhelming (think – Lemur on amphetamines caught in the headlights).  I still have VERY clear memories of when one of the NARS international artists came to Hawai’i and decided to do a Mod eye on me using all black liner; when she was done, i happened to look up and caught the eye of another artist waaaay across the room, and i recall the look on her face was a bit…startled. Later, she came up to me, sort of laughing. “Sorry if i looked at you weird, earlier – it’s just that, with your eyes so dramatically lined in all that crazy black, you looked kind of like…an alien! It was like, you looked up at me, and it was like…BAM. EYEBALLS!”.


The solution i like best is to line the top in black, and use a dark brown, or blue, or green for the bottom lashes and waterline. This rule applies to anyone with smaller eyes as well, regardless of skin-tone. To open up the eyes a bit, always use a lighter shade of liner on the waterline. Black will just close the eyes up. Hence the invention of white eyeliner for that area.

But i digress. Let’s back up a bit.  Let’s take a gander at the look again, and then we’ll do a breakdown of the products i used:


That brown liner is really killing it! Just a bit of soft black on the top to deepen things up a bit.



The main difference between the 60’s version and my version is the lack of heavy blacks, thinner brows (which i cannot help), and a bit more pigment in the lips. The spirit of the idea is still there, it’s just a bit fresher, more modern.  So let’s move on to the makeup!

Now, today took a bit of prep, as i’m in the throes of some kind of unpleasant bug that’s got me feverish, with a sore throat, and with a leaky nose and watery eyes. So, my skin needed a bit of extra help to look halfway decent. I was all dehydrated and red and – well – sick looking.  I started off with a really hydrating routine, and then decided that instead of my usual Chanel Le Blanc Light Creator base, which is basically a sheer primer base, i needed a little more coverage today.



So i broke out my heavy artillery, in the form of my Burberry Fresh Glow BB Cream – which has considerably more coverage, and gives a beautiful, glowy finish.  I generally save this stuff for special occasions, or, in this instance, when my skin looks really crappy. The coverage is what i’d call medium – as in it will cover slight flaws to a degree. Observe how it gives a nice wash of camouflage to my cat-scratched hand:


Burberry BB cream – unblended – looks a just a wee bit overly yellow in this crap indoor light. Overcast in Chicago today. Again.


…partially blended


…totally blended in. Cat scratch still visible, but much less obvious. I could obviously layer for better coverage.


  • Burberry Fresh Glow B.B. Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 20, Fair #01 – $44: After patting some of this magical BB cream in, you’d seriously never know that i spent half the night sweating like a monster, and woke up with a blotchy, dehydrated face, with absolutely NO glow to my skin whatsoever. Of course, my skincare regimen helped, but this stuff really does add a lot of hydration and glow to the skin.  It feels really good on, with a lovely, cushiony feel; it spreads like a dream, and the colour is a good match for my NC 15 skin, with a nice yellow undertone for the lightest shade – something that’s not always easy to find. The wear is fantastic, with 10 hours and going strong. You may need to powder the nose and chin a bit, even if you’re dry, because it’s that hydrating. Which i don’t mind, as i’m so lacking in moisture most of the time. It contains Castor oil, and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract as well as silicones and Tocopherol. If you’re oily, or sensitive to these ingredients, this will probably be too much for you. But for us dry-skinned babes, this stuff is miraculous. NO dry patches by the end of the day! HOWEVER; It only comes in three shades, the darkest being not all that dark.


  • Laura Mercier Second Skin Cheek Colour in Lush Nectarine – $26: I’m rocking a bit of a pasty pallor today, so blush is definitely needed. This colour is perfect for the warm look i’ve got working – it’s very soft, and goes perfectly with the lip i’m wearing. It’s a medium-toned peachy-nectarine pink, but not a wimpy pink. You can definitely overdo it with this, as it’s got some punch, and it’s extremely pigmented.


  • Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Colour SPF 15 – $58: I just dusted a bit of this in my T-Zone, for a bit of colour, and to keep the sickly-feverish sweatiness down – which is decidedly different from a glow. I use this when i need to look like i have a healthy glow, as opposed to “sickly pallor”. It works wonders, as it’s a very light, finely milled powder without a hint of white cast – it’s leaning just this side of bronzer, but you can match it to your skin tone. Beautiful stuff.


I used the brown on the lower inside-right, and the pearl on the upper-right


…and this as a base


And onto my eyeshadow. et al;

  • Tom Ford Private Eyeshadow in Moonlighting – $36: Swept from lash-line up to orbital socket as base colour. I love these eyeshadows! They are super-creamy and soft, the colours are gorgeous, and this just seems to shimmer on my lids with all this subtle dimension. It’s gold, but not a loud gold. It’s like a platinum, moonlit, misty gold. And it never creases. I’m in love.


  • Chanel Les 9 Ombres Palette – $70: On the outer corners, blended up into the orbital socket and into the center, all the way to the lower lash-line, i used the warm, gold-flecked brown shade from this palette. Then, as the highlight shade under the brows and on the inner-corners of the eyes, i used the pearl shade from the same palette.



Blitz Brown

A word about the Pat McGrath pencil; It’s SOO pretty – and i know i’ve expressed reservations about how soft-thus easily used up these pencils are; however the longevity, colour, and depth of these babies keep me coming back! I just wish you didn’t need to sharpen them every ten bloody seconds to keep them sharp. Le sigh. But just look at the sparklies!


I’m such a sucker for this sort of thing

Anyway, next…

  • Les Metier de Beaute Liquid Liner – $45: i used this baby to line the top lids, lightly going over the pencil line just to emphasize things a bit. It’s a soft-black, so all it really did was add a bit of depth and dimension.  I love this eyeliner so much, especially for daytime wear. It’s not a super deep, Vanta black liquid liner; it’s perfectly suited for a gentler look, so pairs perfectly with browns and greys and other colours that you might want to pair with a slightly less harsh look.  Also, this deceptively tiny-looking tube will last and last – it just doesn’t dry out! I’ve had mine for over a year and it’s still going strong.


  • Hourglass Arch Creator Brow Pencil in Platinum – $34: FINALLY, a brow pencil that’s the perfect colour and formulation for my light, sparse brows! It has a perfectly sized angled tip, a spoolie on the opposite end, and a heavy construction for a nice heft. This stuff doesn’t budge all day, goes on like a dream, and doesn’t have one iota of red or gold in it. Definite score.


  • Chanel Le Volume de Chanel Mascara in Noir – $34: And then, of course, my ubiquitous Chanel mascara, which didn’t – and hasn’t – budged, 10 hours later. As I’ve mentioned in other posts, this mascara is my absolute favourite, HG level stuff. It makes my lashes look full and lush without clumping or flaking, ever.


Just a final word about the eyeliners; Under normal circumstances, both of these liners have great wear for me – however, as mentioned early on in this post, neither of them are waterproof, and my eyes are leaking like crazy today, due to fever and general sick-ick. After about four hours, i’m seeing a little wear around the waterline:


Note the eyeliner swatch on my hand…lol.


But hey, considering everything, that’s not too shabby, really.  All in all, my eyes held up pretty damn well!  In fact, the whole face is doing pretty well.

And this, Kumquats, is why i spend money on high quality makeup. I put it through the wringer, often. With as often as my health goes haywire, i can’t afford to be looking like Hell half of my life. I need my shit to perform. And perform, it does.

Speaking of performance, let’s check out what’s going on with my lips:


Mixing two beauties

Simply put, i couldn’t make one lipstick work exactly right for what i wanted, so i mixed it up a bit. The Pat McGrath was a bit too bright, and the Chanel made me look washed out. So i blotted the brighter of the two down – McGrath Tropicalia – then swiped a bit of the Chanel Pensive on top, and Voilà! Perfect.


Chanel above, Pat McGrath below
  • Chanel Rouge Allure Lipstick in Pensive – $37A super soft, pretty pinky-nude shade that looked better on me when i was colouring my hair dark, dark brown, i usually mix this one now – but it looks great when used to tone down brights. It just makes me look washed out by itself, now – i’m not sure if i’ve gotten paler, or the blonde emphasizes my pallor, but i just look like a zombie when i wear it.


  • Pat MacGrath LuxeTrance Lipstick in Tropicalia – $38: I need to do a review of this still – this is a gorgeous, neutral coral shade (as stated by Sephora); i find it to be a bit of an enigma. In certain light, it looks quite bright – in other light, it looks soft and feminine. It’s indefinable. Definitely a coral, though. It’s won my heart, whatever it is. It wears for hours, and lights my face up, making my pale, pale skin look creamy and pretty.


And that’s about it for today’s look and reviews! Have you ever tried any of these products? What helps you look your best when you’re under the weather?

I know in future, i’ll probably avoid dark liner in my waterline…lol.

I hope you enjoyed today’s post! Stay pretty, people. Stay tuned for some Dr Jart Cicapair tips on banishing redness, and a Charlotte Tilbury Hotlips Lipstick review on the shade “Tell Laura”, coming up soon!

XO – Monday